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Gliderol Roller Doors Installed Example

To give you an idea of what is involved with installing a Gliderol Roller door we have some images taken throughout the installation of a 7'x7' manually operated door. This is not intended to be an installation guide, refer to installation manual supplied with the product. You can download Henderson's roller door installation manual, (Gliderol supply the parts to Henderson).

1. Fit the first bracket to the wall or frame. Please note that if you are fixing to masonry, coach-bolts are supplied but rawl plugs are not - you will require 4 x 12mm dia rawl plugs and a 12mm masonry bit. It is essential that these brackets are very securely fitted. Although an 'L'-shaped bracket is shown here we are requesting that 'T'-shaped brackets are delivered - this increases the fixing options and is particularly useful if you have a catnip type lintel.

2. Fix the second bracket so that the top faces are at exactly the same height - even if your frame isn't level you must still fix the door level as differing heights may cause the curtain to move sideways - a laser spirit level is useful but not essential. (The classic sports car is optional!!).

3. If the clearance from the side of the opening to the internal side wall is less than 150mm (ish) you will need to trim the ends of the shaft down so that it will fit across the width of the garage. Our tip is to find the shaft balance point (often marked by a black ring), using a long straight edge mark the edge of the roll on the shaft (left arrow) - then measure the clearance (side of opening to side wall) less 5/10mm (right arrow). Check and check again prior to cutting... getting this bit wrong would be a pain.

DO NOT UNWRAP THE ROLL - you will loose all spring tension.

4. The whole roll now has to be lifted on to the brackets. It is best to do this in stages - particularly if you are on your own. One trick is to tie a stout rope through the slots in each of the brackets (so it doesn't slide off) and tie loops at regular intervals....

5. ....then temporarily tighten the shaft clamps to the very ends of the shaft (arrowed) to prevent the loops from sliding off the shaft as the rope supports each end....

6. ....you can then lift the roll in stages a loop at a time, alternating sides.

7. Finally lift each side on top of the bracket, position the leading edge in the correct place (see instructions), try to center the curtain against the opening (you can adjust later but it is easier to do it now) and tighten the clamps in the correct places as per instructions.

8. Wind 1½ extra turns (increases spring tension so the door will lift easily), slit the packaging preferably without scoring a line across your beautiful new door. Start at the centre. Reach inside so you can hold the bottom rail to prevent the door unrolling whilst you remove the packaging, use a padded clamp if you are on your own. Remove all packing.

9. Now the Guides have to be fitted; these hold the door securely and guide it up and down. They will probably need to be trimmed down. The position of the tongue (arrowed) represents the maximum up position (don't forget to allow for the handle on the outside) and needs to be the same on both sides. If you find that your curtain is not quite central then you will need to slide the whole curtain and shaft assembly along the brackets... NOT NO LOOSEN BOTH CLAMPS AT THE SAME TIME - spring tension will be lost and the door could crash down. Re-tensioning the spring is possible but it is hard work so best avoided!!

Say you wanted to move the curtain to the left... loosen the right clamp and move clamp further left along the shaft - use a block of wood to prise apart - re-tighten clamp. Then loosen left clamp and move it rightwards along the shaft - re-tighten. The whole assembly should then balance up a little further to the left.

10. Once the guides are positioned and secured (if fixing to masonry you will need 8 x 10mm rawl plugs. The roll can then be lowered. The lock assembly drilled out and outside handle fitted.

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